"I wasn’t expecting landlocked Durham to have some of the best seafood I’ve ever tasted, but Durham’s Mateo, the first solo venture by chef Matthew Kelly, was a knockout. Everyone around you will be ordering foxy-looking patatas bravas—fried wedges of potatoes served with aioli—but you also want to order the seafood salad, a bowl brimming with chilled scallops, shrimp, octopus, clams, and calamari, all brightened by an eye-opening sherry vinaigrette."
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